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2003-05-26 - Chindi (Day 41)

Later in the evening, Mr. Sharma, who is a master of social relations, invited me down to the office for a bit of "local wine" just before my dinner arrived. He introduced me to his friend Mohinder who is a high-school science teacher. For the first time in the six weeks of being in India, I have met an Indian who is willing to talk openly to me! Mohinder spoke plainly about his concern, nay, dissatisfaction with America playing politics between Pakistan and India, the war with Iraq and what his view of the future of India is. It really seemed to bother him American's "going back and forth between India and Pakistan" who have had very tense relations bordering on war for the last ten years. I think it caught him off guard when I explained that the average American, in my view, doesn't give a damn about the problems between India and Pakistan, we are simply going along with the policy of the "enemy of my enemy is my friend" with concern to Pakistan in relation to countries that the US is more concerned about in the Middle East - Iran and Iraq and we couldn't care in the least for the disputes over Kashmir. It seemed one of those topics where one side is deeply upset and the other has no idea what they are upset about.

Mohinder and I have a simply amazing talk (albeit in somewhat lowered tones so the rest of the dining hall doesn't pick up their butter knives and chop us to bits.) One of the first things I ask is about India's future and to my chagrin, I'm told exactly what I in very bad humor wrote just a couple of days ago in this journal that India has a very depressing future in front of it due to rising population, consistent resources, and corrupt politics. While I beg out of the issue of corruption which I have no basis to judge, Muhammad insists that Indian politics are probably the world's most corrupt - now that's a scary thought. It saddens me to no end to hear a high-school teacher with such a pessimistic view of the country, and their own ability to change the future. In his view its a simple spiral down as no one is willing to tackle the rising population, the constitution ensures the rights of Muslims to continue to have large families which will eventually lead to ever increasing conflict between the Muslims and Hindu's, and a culture of corruption.

Afterwards I'm taken by the two of them into the hotel kitchen to have dinner with the entire staff. I feel like I have finally arrived and been accepted into the culture! I've been invited into the kitchen which I learned way back in college speech classes is the place where almost all cultures have the most relaxed and cordial conversation. As usual, it took a lot of drinking but the Mr. Sharma, Mohinder and the rest of the staff and I get drunk and spend an evening making jokes and trading stories of our different countries which makes the whole day worthwhile. After much drink and comparison of the sexual prowess of American's versus Indians (the American's lost as Mr. Sharma has two wives and I have nothing to compete with that) we go back to Mr. Sharma's room where again, the American's have to prove their drinking stamina against the Indians. I'm also shocked to hear Mr Sharma speak about his two wives and seven children and I'm fascinated to hear about Mohinder's new wife ( of two weeks) who he's only able to see once a week as they work 60km apart and he only met 5 times before marriage. Definitely a night of being introduced into the details of this very different culture. Tonight for the first time since I have been in India I'm told to my face that the Indian everyman does not like George Bush - but for the first time its not held against me. I have finally been let into a kitchen, dirty and grimy that it is, but what family or country's isn't?

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