
Steve looking rather grouchy after another night in the hotels from hell.
The kids of Patachick gathered around watching the bike be repaired. |

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2003-07-26
- Rangdum - Panikhar
(Day 102)
Again up and out early there is only a short 60km ride back to Panikhar today. All expectations are it is a cakewalk of a day but I have already forgotten that everything is relative. While its an "easy day" that is in comparison to the ride from Rangdum to Padum and 30km into the ride, I'm already feeling sore from the road and I'm going, "wasn't this supposed to be an easy ride???"
Steve has another bit of bad luck in that his luggage rack breaks in three
places which considering both bikes are fully loaded is really a bit of
a problem. We pull back into the chai stand in Patachick where we stopped
on the way down and Steve ties it up with some ropes, bungee and an old
sock. What is amusing to watch is that Steve is ringed by the local boys
who find whatever we do fascinating in itself and sit and watch for the
45 minutes it takes to rig up times and repack with the same rapt attention
one would expect from watching TV.
We take it easy stopping many times for photos and video but still by the time we finally reach Panikhar again, we are sore from the ride and wondering where the easy riding is supposed to be. Of course, we are more worried about tomorrow where we get to go back across that river which even gives me a bad dream during the evening.
It is the same menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner that certainly doesn't add much joy to arriving at a destination, however there isn't anything to look forward to in making it back to Kargil either. I have to console myself that the houseboats in Srinagar should have much better food.

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