

Dusk setting on The Golden Temple |

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2003-08-22
- Panitop - Amritsar
(Day 129)
The ride up into the hills to the low pass separating Kashmir from the state of Jammu was a pleasant ride and I take a quick look back across the lush green Kashmir Valley just before entering the 2.5 km long tunnel connecting Jammu and Kashmir. There was a little lookout point near the top with signs recommending a rest and a look but as I slowed to pull over, one of the ever-present army guys motioned me to move along. The tunnel was probably what is to be expected in India, no lights, pitch black from diesel fumes, the air was simply impossible to breathe and I had a minivan with no lights on tailgating me on the single lane tunnel. Worst part about the Enfield is its so damn heavy that even turning to flip someone the bird is hazardous and it will tilt too much to one side in the action.
After the tunnel, I started heading back down toward the Indian plains and pass a convoy of more then a hundred army transports, which as always are taking up their entire lane and much of mine in their oversized Askok-Lehland transports. I also pass two new large cannons being towed into Kashmir, I guess the Indians are ready to keep their part in this game of lobbing shells back and forth.
Out of the hills I am back onto the Indian Plains - it is so damn hot,
the people are much less friendly and the women are even less pleasing
to the eye. What really gets me is the traffic since now that I am on
flatland without the curves slowing people down, the drivers are back
to gunning it at full speed. I'm convinced I should put a sign out for
the ubiquitous white Marruiti that is tailgating me on the back of the
bike - "It's a Marruti, NOT a sports car!" I yelled that at one obnoxious
driver as he passed throwing the Sikh in the back into peals of laughter.
It must be close to 100 degrees Fahrenheit out and the sweat is pouring off me with even the wind from the bike at 60km/hr unable to keep me dry. The sunscreen I have on also is acting as a magnet for diesel exhaust so when I finally pull into Amritsar my face is completely black except for around the eyes where the goggles kept some off.
I don't stop to worry about that other then a quick rinse of the face and hurry to try to get the sunset over the Golden Temple. I only had time for a couple of shots before the light was completely gone, but I did sit for another two hours just watching the temple, and the Sikhs coming to worship.
In truth, I was a little disappointed, as I had expected something truly moving like the Lincoln Memorial or the Chiang Kai-Sheck Memorial.

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