The nice welcoming 10th century door...

..which I am chased out of by the less then friendly "guard".

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2003-12-27 / 12-28 - Anwar (Day 254-255)

The cold and cloudy weather continues and since I am feeling so snug and warm with my little space heater that came with the room after two weeks of sleeping in my jeans and down jacket, I spend the entire day on the 27th cozy and warm, and taking three steaming showers supposedly to wash the road grime out but more just to enjoy the novelty of a hot shower. There are still a couple of essays for b-school left to complete and Nicky has thrown me a recommendation letter to write so I have much to keep me busy on such an ugly day.

The 28th finds the sun out, and me waking up with a huge smile. How could one not be happy with a lovely heater blowing on my face all night, and then another hot shower and breakfast outside in the sunshine.

Of course, in India it is near impossible (at least so far) to come upon a perfect day and I soon have my ire raised by the continuing bureaucracy of the Indian government. I take a ride out of Anwar and looking up on the hills (I did not know there were hills surrounding the town so dense were the gray clouds when I rode in...) there is a massive fort overlooking the city so I head off that way. Driving up, I am asking myself, "These roads are so lovely and the fort looks gorgeous, I wonder why there are no cars?" - well if there are no people in India, there MUST be a reason. I ride up to the fort and there is a great big welcoming placard outside describing it's history, hum so far so good! As I walk through the fort door, there are three men lying on a blanket in the middle of the square. Within seconds they yell, "NO PHOTOS! NOT ALLOWED!" This is a cultural relic and who knows who these people are, so I reply with the question of "why?" If there is anything that has been consistent with the Indian bureaucrats I have come across it is the lack of sense of whatever the situation is, and their inability to give a reason for anything they request.

The reply was, "those are the rules!"
"This is a cultural landmark and a beautiful buildings, besides it is not being used and is in ruins why no photos?"
"Those are the rules..."

Lovely. Knowing I am not going to get any further, I pack my camera away and start into the fort.

"NO ADMISSION!"
"Huh?"
"YOU MUST HAVE PERMISSION!"
"Ok, I'll bite...where do I get permission?"
"IN ANWAR" - That is of course 13km back down the road I just came from...I still do not know who these people are, so I risk it with, "OK, I'll get permission tomorrow" - and start into the fort, which is immediately followed by one of the guys getting off his butt and chasing after me with ham-fists in the air. Well, I guess he was serious and I am kicked out of the fort - with the huge 10th century gate being slammed and locked behind me.

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