2003-12-30 - Alwar - Delhi (Day 261)
The sky is a brilliant blue for the last day's ride to Delhi and thoughts on the trip's end.

2003-12-29 - Alwar (Day 260)
The luxury of hot water, clean sheets and food end the trip.

2003-12-27 / 12-28 - Alwar (Day 258-259)
Indian bureaucracy and I am chased out of the Bala Quila Fort ruins.

2003-12-26 - Deeg - Alwar (Day 257)
Praying the horns will stop and the Deeg Palace.

2003-12-25 - Agra - Keoladeo Ghana National Park - Deeg (Day 256)
My Christmas in the park and what Tom Cruise's life must be like.

2003-12-23 / 12-24 - Agra (Day 254-255)
Site uploads, world news, chatting with friends and Christmas traditions.

2003-12-22 - Ochha - Agra (Day 249)
I have come full circle and the first stop on the trip becomes almost the last.

2003-12-21 - Ochha (Day 248)
Footpaths to the ruins of Ochha palaces and temples.

2003-12-20 - Khujaraho - Ochha (Day 247)
The countdown begins with the perfect close to the trip.

2003-12-19 - Khujaraho (Day 246)
Contemplation of humanity and everyday as the gateway to God.

2003-12-18 - Khujaraho (Day 245)
"India Time" and anything is possible in India - except uploading the site updates.

2003-12-17 - Khujaraho (Day 244)
Polo addiction, attitude adjustment under a tree and the temple light show.

2003-12-16 - Khujaraho (Day 243)
I'm told "high-quality" photos are not permitted and the light show from a tree-top.

2003-12-15 - Satna - Khujaraho (Day 242)
The "Big Man in Town" and my first look at the astonishing temples of Khujaraho.

2003-12-14 - Varanasi - Satna (Day 241)
Half heaven / half hell back on the road toward the erotic temples of Khujaraho.

2003-12-12 / 12-13 - Varanasi (Day 239-240)
A moving ceremony of offerings to the "Mother River" on the banks of the Ganges and Varanasi says 2003 is clean water year - on the second week in December!

2003-12-11 - Varanasi (Day 238)
Watching the sun rise with the pilgrims, washing my sins away in the Ganges, and being told I'm not welcome at the Golden Temple.

2003-12-10 - Varanasi (Day 237)
A boat ride on the holy Ganges and a long look at the cremation ghats and the process of preparing someone for death.

2003-12-07 / 12-09 - Calcutta - Varanasi (Day 234-236)
The country's second main highway turns into 780 kilometers of death traps and aggravation and my blood boils in Bihar which is as bad as I was warned.

2003-12-05 / 12-06 - Calcutta (Kolkata) (Day 233-234)
Mother Teresa's Mother House, the only Chinatown with no pride, Calcutta's make out spot.

2003-12-04 - Calcutta (Kolkata) (Day 232)
I've moved to the hotel from the movie "The Shining!"

2003-10-07 to 2003-12-03 - Pokhara - Katmandu - India Border - Assam - Bangladesh - Calcutta
GMAT preparation, testing and b-school applications put the website on hold. Then I set out on the road and with many adventures cross out of Nepal, into India over to Bangladesh and then back into India. However the stories, photos and journals are only coming slowly as travel, harsh roads and other obligations have slowed down the postings. I'm jumping ahead to keep the journal current and filling these in as I get things caught up. Sorry for the inconvenience but there is a hole in the site for now.

2003-10-06 - Pokhara (Day 173)
Instructions on playing "Crouching Tiger", the national game of Nepal.

2003-10-05 - Pokhara (Dasain) (Day 172)
Villagers all with gobs of red powder, yogurt and rice on their heads on Nepal's big festival day.

2003-10-02 / 10/04 - Pokhara - Rafting Kali Gandaki - Pokhara (Day 169-171)
Spaniards and a crazy guide are a recipe for flipping our raft and coughing up glacier water.

2003-10-01 - Pokhara - Bengas Lake - Pokhara (Day 168)
To the two other lakes near Pokhara and "The Mule" leaves me stuck in the mud.

2003-09-30 - Pokhara (Day 167)
My swim with The Mule has left the engine flooded with water and a missed Lhasa trip.

2003-09-29 - Pokhara (Day 166)

"Everyone is talking about me and saying things" | "Dude how would you know,they are speaking Nepali?"

2003-09-25 / 09-28 - Pokhara (Day 163-165)
Paul Ou writes an article giving me a big kick in the butt to do web work.

2003-09-23 / 09-24 - Pokhara (Day 161-162)
I am left wondering where my home is.

2003-09-22 - Pokhara (Day 160)
'The mule' dies and leaves me stir crazy in Pokhara.

2003-09-21 - Pokhara (Day 159)
5 minutes of noise, celebration, and losing the discovery of travel.

2003-09-18 / 09-20 - Pokhara (Day 156-158)
The Maoists close the country with a 3-day strike and a businessman's opinion.

2003-09-17 - Pokhara (Day 155)
Almost killed by a moth.

2003-09-16 - Pokhara (Day 154)
My first look at Machhapuchhare.

2003-09-15 - Pokhara (Day 153)
The mule goes swimming, up to Sarangkot and the Tibetan Refugee Camp.

2003-09-14 - Mugling - Pokhara (Day 152)
Into the villages around Pokhara and racing the rain home.

2003-09-13 - Kathmandu - Mugling (Day 151)
Losing the bike key and another roadside dump hotel.

2003-09-12 - Kathmandu - Mt. Everest - Kathmandu (Day 150)
Mt. Everest and Swayambhunath Stupa.

2003-09-11 - Kathmandu (Day 149)
Yet another way for me to die in Nepal.

2003-09-10 - Kathmandu (Day 148)
What the world recession has meant to Nepal.

2003-09-09 - Kathmandu (Day 147)
The Kumari makes her appearance in Durbar Square and an "Ugly American".

2003-09-08 - Butwal - Kathmandu (Day 146)
Dirt loving Enfields go through landslides and I finally have done as Bob Segar suggested.

2003-09-07 - Nepalganj - Butwal (Day 145)
Ride through the countryside, I eat a butterfly and the closest shave ever.

2003-09-05 / 9-06 - Birdia National Park - Nepalganj (Day 143-144)
Stuck under a bus stop with Maoist sympathizers and waiting out another day of rain.

2003-09-04 - Birdia National Park (Day 142)
Noam greets me with, "So, I don't think you like Israelis"...

2003-09-03 - Mahendranagar - Birdia National Park (Day 141)
The highway collapses and I'm in the mud and then a river.

2003-09-02 - Mahendranagar (Day 140)
100 homes flooded and civil war starts..."Welcome to Nepal!"

2003-09-01 - Banbassa - Mahendranagar (Day 139)
Complications in border crossing and stuck between two countries with no money & no visa.

2003-08-31 - Nanital - Banbassa (Day 138)
My stomach finally mutinies against rice/dal and is on hunger strike until I get to Nepal.

2003-08-30 - Nanital (Day 137)
"Indian time" and I escape after HBO overdose.

2003-08-29 - Amora - Nanital (Day 136)
"slip sliding away, you know the nearer your destination the more you're slip sliding away...."

2003-08-28 - Kausani - Amora (Day 135)
Bob Segar's songs from childhood lead me to another town, but it's time has passed.

2003-08-27 - Kausani (Day 134)
Another easy day caught by the rain hoping clouds will clear.

2003-08-26 - Rudraprayag - Kausani (Day 133)
Tempting fate, the God's give me a slap and little models at the Baijnath temple ruins.

2003-08-25 - Mussoorie - Rudraprayag (Day 132)
"Mr. Cool" makes another mistake and the "Death Star" of dams.

2003-08-24 - Ludhiana - Mussoorie (Day 131)
Back into the hills, past a Domino's Pizza and up into "the place" to have an affair.

2003-08-23 - Amritsar - Ludhiana (Day 130)
Up early to catch the sunrise and morning prayers at the Golden Temple.

2003-08-22 - Panitop - Amritsar (Day 129)
The horror of being on the plains again and sunset on the Golden Temple.

2003-08-21 - Srinagar - Panitop (Day 128)
Bittersweetness in being on the road again, but leaving people I really like.

2003-08-19-20 - Srinagar (Day 126-127)
Rain keeps me watching the lotus blossoms on the lake.

2003-08-18 - Srinagar (Day 125)
City tour of old Srinagar and welcome at one mosque and unwelcome at another.

2003-08-17 - Srinagar (Day 124)
A catch up day and swimming in the weeds of Nageen Lake.

2003-08-16 - Water Trek Day 4 - Srinagar (Day 123)
The last day of the water trek and happiness at getting off the boat

2003-08-15 - Water Trek Day 3 (Day 122)
Early morning mist, a "cow taxi" and an unwelcome group of voyeurs.

2003-08-14 - Water Trek Day 2 (Day 121)
Mansball Lake and a herd of horses in the fairytale Gonderbul Forest.

2003-08-13 - Srinagar - Water Trek Day 1 (Day 120)
I set off through Srinagar Old Town on a Shikara for a Water Trek.

2003-08-12 - Srinagar (Day 119)
Nothing at all interesting happened and I'm loving it!

2003-08-11 - Srinagar (Day 118)
The depressing Shankaracharya Temple and a conversation on freedom to throw one's trash in your neighbor's backyard.

2003-08-10 - Srinagar (Day 117)
A day spent lazing with a wonderful book.

2003-08-09 - Srinagar (Day 116)
Fly fishing in Kashmir.

2003-08-07 / 08 - Srinagar (Day 114-115)
Through the waterways to Da Lake and more government bureaucracy.

2003-08-06 - Srinagar (Day 113)
Trip to the Mugal Gardens, and bare wires and broken fences.

2003-08-05 - Srinagar (Day 112)
Indian tourists drive me to wandering around the back alleys of Srinagar.

2003-08-04 - Srinagar (Day 111)
Taking a ride around Dal Lake.

2003-08-02/ 03 - Srinagar (Day 109 - 110)
The floating vegetable market and a couple of lazy days reading.

2003-08-01 - Srinagar (Day 108)
A ride around Dal Lake.

2003-07-31 - Srinagar (Day 107)
Moving into the houseboat and the ritual of fixing "the mule".

2003-07-30 - Drass - Srinagar (Day 106)
Over the last pass at Zoji-La, high-mountain traffic jam and down into the Kashmir Valley.

2003-07-28 / 29 - Kargil - Drass (Day 104-105)
Midnight ride under enemy eyes and being fired upon by the Pakistanis.

2003-07-27 - Panikhar - Kargil (Day 103)
Apprehension like a ride in Disneyland, back across the river crossing.

2003-07-26 - Rangdum - Panikhar (Day 102)
Bright sunshine and a cloudless sky greets us on the way out of Padum.

2003-07-25 - Padum - Rangdum (Day 101)
Bright sunshine and a cloudless sky greets us on the way out of Padum.

2003-07-24 - Padum (Day 100)
Fate has something in mind for us and arranges things so we aren't leaving as planned.

2003-07-23 - Padum (Day 99)
Absolutely nothing happened but a Dutch girl washed her clothes.

2003-07-22 - Padum (Day 98)
Sitting in the courtyard drinking tea.

2003-07-21 - Rangdum - Padum (Day 97)
Hangovers, bad stomachs, and 120km on the worst road so far.

2003-07-20 - Panikhar - Rangdum (Day 96)
Tea stall kids in Panichick, more dirty sheets and a bad stomach.

2003-07-19 - Kargil - Panikhar (Day 95)
The first step on the road to Zanskar and facing down the worst bit of water yet.

2003-07-18 - Bosco - Kargil (Day 94)
Entering into the region of Islam, clean sheets and more bike repairs.

2003-07-17 - Lamaruyu - Bosco (Day 93)
Quiet hour of meditation in a monastery below a 2000 year old carving.

2003-07-16 - Alchi - Lamaruyu (Day 92)
Dances at the Lamaruyu Monastery festival, lost in the dark.

2003-07-15 - Leh - Tiksey - Leh - Alchi (Day 91)
Greeting the sunrise with sacred conch shells, morning puja, leaving Leh and the ride to Alchi.

2003-07-14 - Leh - Khardung La - Khalsar - Khardung La - Leh (Day 90)
Up and down and up and down over the highest motorable road in the world.

2003-07-11 / 07-13 - Leh (Day 87-89)
Getting ready to set on the road again.

2003-07-09 / 07-10 - Leh - Hemis - Leh (Day 85-86)
The most famous of the Leh area festivals at Hemis Monastery.

2003-07-08 - Leh - Phiyang - Basgo - Alchi - Likir - Leh (Day 84)
A visit with a couple of aspiring lawyers to four of the monasteries near Leh.

2003-07-06 / 07-07 - Leh (Day 82-83)
I've lost the sense of "wonder" at India.

2003-07-05 - Leh (Day 81)
Website dies with the antics of my U.S. provider and other geek frustrations.

2003-07-02 / 07-04 - Leh (Day 78-80)
The Dalai Lama (twice) and Hemis Monastery.

2003-06-27 / 07-01 - Leh (Day 73-77)
Hanging out window shopping in Leh, the President drives by and Tiksey Monastery.

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