Profile - Noam and Gal

I've witnessed a series of negative incidents involving Israelis on this trip and when I have an opportunity to travel with a couple of young guys I met on the border of Nepal, I gladly took it to see if there is more to the story then what I've seen.

I met Noam and Gal as they saw my bike sitting outside the hotel in Mahendranagar and decided to stay in the same place. Both were pretty direct but Noam takes the cake with his morning greeting over coffee, "So, I don't think you like Israelis..." The following is from the journal on the conversation:
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2003-09-04 - Royal Birdia National Park (Day 142)

So far my experiences with Israelis have been pretty negative especially Manali and Leh where I've seen instance after instance of Israelis being completely condescending to the locals, dressing in very inappropriate clothes; for the Israeli girls that clutter Manali for example the dress code is bra-less tank tops, and having party after party filled with drugs and loud music. While none of that is particularly astonishing in itself, taken in the context of the cultural norms of where we are, it is very offensive. Clothing for example is very conservative. Men for example even in the heat wear long sleeves and never wear shorts. The only difference generally being wandering holy men. Women are also very conservative dressing head to toe and of course, there is the Islamic areas where the norm is the extreme burka. To have the bare shirted Israeli men, or women with no bras in this environment is simply disrespectful to the environment one is in, essentially some else's house. The Israeli drug scene is of course well known with the chance of finding an Israeli here without hash or marijuana about as common as seeing Mercedes Benz's in Ladakh. (not one in 3 months there.) While the Indians and Napalis are also common hash smokers for example, it is done quietly, in the home, never out in public, and seldom talked about. In Leh, for example I was in a restaurant with the table next to me getting very loudly stoned over lunch. Simply rude. Of course, the most offensive to me is the condescending rudeness that I have seen Israeli after Israeli talk to the locals, arguing about prices and service in a tone that in the US would, without question, have one decked before the second sentence.

Noam is still listening so I go on as this has been a generalization, I pull in yesterday's experience - we rode into the hotel the previous day and in 15 minutes both of them were dressed only in boxer shorts, the full amplifier & speakers stereo which Gal travels with was cranked and they were out on the porch in full view of the 5 young mothers who were also sharing the hotel with us. We had also had an experience at a gas station the day before where there was an instant argument as Gal thought he had been cheated 20 rupees (US$ 0.20) by the attendant.

I ended saying this had been what I had personally seen on the trip and I found much of it offensive and was drawing a very negative impression of Israelis from these experiences. However, since I personally did not know anyone from Israel and had not traveled with any, I thought I should join with them and see for myself what conclusions I should draw about the country and people.

Now I must first give credit in saying that Noam listened to about 20 minutes of experiences, which for the most part were condemnations of his countrymen and culture in thoughtful silence. While I am sure he wasn't pleased, I don't think he took it personally.

Israel is a very tough country; we are surrounded by cultures who hate us and where you could be killed any particular day on the street. We have spent the last two years in very difficult military service and have done many things that are horrible. To come to India is to forget all of that, to live in peace, let the hair grow and relax. We come here to get away from the difficulty of life in Israel and just want to have fun.

That I understand, but I question him on its appropriateness in this country, as many of these actions are offensive to the Indians and Nepalis. For example, would you do the same things in the US or talk to Americans the way you talk to Indians? (Noam has lived in the US). No, he agreed, he wouldn't. Well what about in Israel? No.
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Thus, you have why I have formed a negative opinion of Israeli's while being here. However, there is a clause to that. During my time with Noam & Gal, they were extremely friendly and courteous to both me and to everyone we met on the road. In most cases much friendlier then I was to the people we met and bringing smiles all around. I also have to be the first to admit that it was soon clear that Gal was going to get the best price in hotels and I didn't even bother entering as if the proprietor saw an American the price was going to be higher then if it was just a group of Israelis. I stayed outside and them Noam and Gal do all the negotiating which for my friends from Taiwan I'm sure will be unbelievable as I have a reputation for driving a hard bargain...but in this case, these guys were much tougher then I. Noam and Gal were fun to ride with and I missed seeing them go in Kathmandu - but unfortunately that may have been a sign of the problem itself. On the first night in Tree-tops, I had been very happy to have Dire Straits played loud and kicking back with the feet up and watching the rain as well. It was very easy for me to accept and I quickly forgot about the fact that we were playing blaring music across a hotel. The actions that I found offensive are only offensive if viewed in context of the location, none of them would be out of the ordinary in Ft. Lauderdale during Spring Break for example, and it is easy to forget where one is in a group. On of the English women I met on this trip commented on Israelis by saying that individually she'd never met one she didn't like, but put them in a group they are extremely annoying as they forget where they are.

My guess is that these two guys are typical of the average Israeli young guy who comes to India after leaving the army, which in places like Manali are about 80% of the foreign travelers. Both were very adventurous, which anyone driving an Enfield is almost by definition, but also friendly nice people.

Assuming these guys are typical I'd suggest to any American guys in their 20s who are out to see the world and do something different, fly to India and up to Manali. The Israeli travelers will make sure you have a time wild enough to leave you partied out but you will be partying in places that few other American venture. Thinking back on the trips I did and wanted to do when I was young, Ft. Lauderdale for Spring Break, Alps for skiing, Mexico, etc... India would have been much cooler and more exotic but it never occurred to me as so few people from the US go. So my advice to myself 15 years ago - "Hell with Lauderdale, go hang out with the Israelis in Manali, buy a used 500 US$ Enfield and ride it over to Leh. THAT is a trip which is cool and you can afford." Noam and Gal were budgeting 500 US$ / month and living very well.

For me, though they were nice guys I still felt a bit of generation gap and means and attitude toward travel meant we weren’t to ride together too long. I guess I really am getting old.