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These photos are from the Onwalkabout trip, 9 months
in 2003 where I took a classic motorcycle, camera and notebook through India,
Nepal and Bangladesh to see what photos could be captured. These photos
are the product of most of a year of my life.
I would love to have feedback on these pictures, good, bad or indifferent.
Please leave any thoughts in my guestbook. |
Improving my photography is one of the main goals
that inspired me to go "onwalkabout". Spending the time to focus
on this hobby is something I'd most likely not normally take the time
to do. However, setting out on the road, with hundreds of new sights to
capture, I'm setting off to find inspiration, and improve my skills both
behind the lens and with photography software.
These galleries are a chronicle of this time I've
taken, what I've seen on the road and my attempts to capture the beauty
of what I've seen. If you want to take a shortcut, here are my favorite
photos from the trip.
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(80 photos) - Tradition
says that one must stay on a houseboat when visiting Kashmir. These
are the photos from two-weeks of peace on Nageen Lake and around
Srinagar. The reputation Kashmir has for beauty and comfort is certainly
well deserved and it was so easy to forget the cares of the word
looking out on the lakes. .
Related Journal Entries:
2003-08-09 - Srinagar
(Day 116)
Fly fishing in Kashmir.
2003-08-07 / 08 - Srinagar
(Day 114-115)
Through the waterways to Da Lake and more government bureaucracy.
2003-08-06 - Srinagar (Day
113)
Trip to the Mugal Gardens, and bare wires and broken fences.
2003-08-05 - Srinagar (Day
112)
Indian tourists drive me to wandering around the back alleys of
Srinagar.
2003-08-04 - Srinagar (Day
111)
Taking a ride around Dal Lake.
2003-08-02/ 03 - Srinagar
(Day 109 - 110)
The floating vegetable market and a couple of lazy days reading.
2003-08-01 - Srinagar (Day
108)
Taking a ride around Dal Lake.
2003-07-31 - Srinagar (Day
107)
Moving into the houseboat and the ritual of fixing "the mule".
2003-07-30 - Drass - Srinagar
(Day 106)
Over the last pass at Zoji-La, high-mountain traffic jam and down
into the Kashmir Valley.
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(72 photos) - Known
as the last Shangri-La, I ride into the Zanskar Valley, one of the
most remote places in the Himalayas. The road has only been open
since the 1980's and even at that, it was the hardest road I've
ever been down with 160+km of loose dirt, gravel, sand and water.
However, the views were simply stunning and it was one of the most
rewarding rides of this trip.
Related Journal Entries:
2003-07-27 - Panikhar -
Kargil (Day 103)
Apprehension like a ride in Disneyland, back across the river crossing.
2003-07-26 - Rangdum - Panikhar
(Day 102)
Bright sunshine and a cloudless sky greets us on the way out of
Padum.
2003-07-25 - Padum - Rangdum
(Day 101)
Bright sunshine and a cloudless sky greets us on the way out of
Padum.
2003-07-24 - Padum (Day
100)
Fate has something in mind for us and arranges things so we aren't
leaving as planned.
2003-07-23 - Padum (Day
99)
Absolutely nothing happened but a Dutch girl washed her clothes.
2003-07-22 - Padum (Day
98)
Sitting in the courtyard drinking tea.
2003-07-21 - Rangdum - Padum
(Day 97)
Hangovers, bad stomachs and 120km on the worst road so far.
2003-07-20 - Panikhar -
Rangdum (Day 96)
Tea stall kids in Panichick, more dirty sheets and a bad stomach.
2003-07-19 - Kargil - Panikhar
(Day 95)
Entering into the region of Islam, clean sheets and more bike repairs.
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(32 photos) - Not
as well known as the Hemis festival, a smaller monastery set high
in the desert landscape 100km from Leh, the Lamaruyu festival was
much more vibrant and pleasing then the overly commercial one of
Hemis. The view had a feeling of much more energy and interest from
the dancers and more involvement with the locals. It was a ceremony
with a feeling of being much more real then the more touristy Hemis.
Over two days from sunrise to sunset the dancers whirled around
the courtyards of the monastery and enacted the drama of good and
evil from a Buddhist point of view.
Related Journal Entries:
2003-07-17 - Lamaruyu -
Bosco (Day 93)
Quiet hour of meditation in a monastery below a 2000 year old carving.
2003-07-16 - Alchi - Lamaruyu
(Day 92)
Dances at Lamaruyu festival, lost in the dark.
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(11 photos) - I
take an early morning ride to Tiksey monastery, 12km from Leh, where
I get a chance to watch morning puja (prayers) in the prayer room
and join with the monks in breaking bread and taking breakfast.
The ceremony was a moving as the butter-tea and bread was filling.
Related Journal Entries:
2003-07-15 - Leh - Tiksey
- Leh - Alchi (Day 91)
Greeting the sunrise with sacred conch shells, morning puja, leaving
Leh and the ride to Alchi. |
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(11 photos) - I
take a short one day ride up from Leh on the highest road in the
world, over Khardung La (Khardung Pass) and down into the Nubra
Valley, and then back again.
Related Journal Entries:
2003-07-14 - Leh - Khardung
La - Khalsar - Khardung La - Leh (Day 90)
Up and down and up and down over the highest motorable road in the
world. |
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(41 photos) - "In
the Hemis festival, which is dedicated to Padmasambhava, what the
visitor can observe is a series of scenes in which the lamas, robed
in gowns of rich, brightly colored brocade and sporting masks sometimes
benign and sometimes bizarrely hideous, parade in solemn dance round
the huge flag-pole in the center of the courtyard, to the plaintive
melody of the shawm, the moan of the eleven-foot horns, the boom
of drums and the clash of cymbals. The solemnity is varied by comic
interludes in which the dancers in the guise of skeletons bound
into the arena, performing grotesquely agile gymnastics." –
Ladakh-Crossroads of High Asia by Janet Rizvi pg 232-233.
Related Journal Entries:
2003-07-09 / 07-10 -
Leh - Hemis - Leh (Day 85-86)
The most famous of the Leh area festivals at Hemis Monastery.
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(16 photos) - Leh
is surrounded by monasteries and places of interest perfect for
day trips. One trip I venture out to the west down the Indus valley
to the monasteries of Phiyang, Basgo, Alchi and Liker with a couple
of American law students. We made it in time to witnesses the morning
prayers of Phiyang which was one of the more moving experiences
I've yet had in India.
Related Journal Entries:
2003-07-08 Leh - Phiyang
- Basgo - Alchi - Likir - Leh (Day 84)
A visit with a couple of aspiring lawyers to four
of the monasteries near Leh
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(43 photos) - This
gallery is scenes from the town of Leh and visits to the surrounding
Gompas (monasteries). The town is small and quaint but in the beautiful
setting of the Indus valley with snowcapped Himalayan peaks in every
direction. The air is thin and a walk will leave me breathless but
that leads to an incredibly blue sky and stars at night that are
unbelievable.
Related Journal Entries:
2003-07-11 / 07-13 -
Leh (Day 87-89)
Getting ready to set on the road again.
2003-07-06 / 07-07 - Leh
(Day 82-83)
I've lost the sense of "wonder" at India.
2003-07-05 - Leh (Day 81)
Website dies with the antics of my U.S. provider and other geek
frustrations.
2003-07-02 / 07-04 - Leh
(Day 78-80)
The Dalai Lama (twice) and Hemis Monastery.
2003-06-27 / 07/01 Leh (Day
73-77)
Hanging out window shopping in Leh, the President drives by and
Tiksey Monastery
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(58 photos) - The
475km journey from Manali to Leh proves to be the toughest riding
I've ever done with almost everything I hate in one road –
bike eating potholes, lose gravel roads, broken pavement, inches
deep dust, two conveys of 50+ army vehicles, snow, hail, ice, and
the worst – several river crossings. However, it was also
a ride offering incomparable scenery that defines the reason to
travel. Here are some of the views from the road to Leh.
Related Journal Entries:
2003-06-26 - Road to Leh
(Day 6) - Rumtse - Leh (Day 72)
A last day of riding in the sunshine to Leh.
2003-06-25 - Road to Leh
(Day 5) - Pang - Rumtse (Day 71)
Up over the Morey plain and the second highest pass in the world.
2003-06-24 - Road to Leh
(Day 4) - Sarchu - Pang (Day 70)
Out of the tents into the bull dust and river.
2003-06-23 - Road to Leh
(Day 3) - Jispa - Sarchu (Day 69)
The ride from hell, into the rivers and into the mud.
2003-06-22 - Road to Leh
(Day 2) - Keylong - Jispa (Day 68)
A short ride to the last hotel for 200km.
2003-06-21 - Road to Leh
(Day 1) - Manali -Keylong (Day 67)
Over the first of four passes Rohtang to the little village of Keylong.
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(17 photos) - I
join in the chase jeep protecting a VIP traveling up to Rohtang
Pass, the gateway to the high Himalayas. The pass at 3978 meters
is also the gateway to the highest motorable road in the world.
The jeep filled with India's elite commando group and their submachine
guns provides a surrealistic way to get to the top of this stunning
pass.
Related Journal Entries:
2003-06-13 - Katrain - Rohtang
Pass - Katrain - (Day 59)
Machine guns on my lap I join the elite Black Cat commandos up to
Rohtang |
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